Additional Systems

Some of the benefits of using ozone:

• It kills all known bacteria and viruses found in spas, hot tubs and pools, quickly and efficiently.
• It is inexpensive and automatic.
• It does not discolour hair, fade swimsuits or cause dry skin.
• It does not irritate eyes or skin.
• It is safe for your pool and equipment.
• It eliminates cloudy water.
• It will not adversely affect the pH.
• It eliminates chlorine and bromine by-products.
• It is environmentally safe.
• It makes your water sparkle.

Your Ozone Generator:

Your pool has been equipped with an ozone generator made to your pool’s specifications. The ozone generator will introduce ozone into your pool automatically to keep both the water and the pool sparkling clean.

Ozone: What is it?

Ozone, with the chemical formula O3, comprised of three atoms of oxygen, is one of natures basic elements. Ozone is produced in nature when the ultraviolet rays of the sun strike oxygen molecules high (about 90,000′) in the earth’s atmosphere. This process creates what we know as the “ozone layer.” Because the oxygen absorbs the sun’s energy, people on earth are protected from the damaging and potentially cancer-causing rays of the sun. Nature also produces ozone nearer to the earth’s surface each time lightning flashes. The sweet, fresh smell near a thunderstorm is ozone.

Ozone’s practical use as a water purifier was discovered in the late 1800s in the Netherlands. It’s first large scale use was the installation of an ozone purification plant for the city of Nice, France in 1906. Today, more than thirty countries use ozone for systems to purify drinking water. In fact, the city of Los Angeles has installed one of the largest ozone water treatment plants in the world, processing more than 74 million gallons of water per day.

Ozone may not completely replace traditional water sanitizing chemicals such as chlorine or bromine. A small amount of chlorine or bromine may be needed in the water during times when the Ozone Generator is not in use, or after the pool has been heavily used. Ozone will be doing the major job of killing microorganisms and oxidizing bather waste such as perspiration, body oil, suntan lotion etc. At the same time ozone will be eliminating chloramines and bromamines, and the bromine by-products that cause bad odours and taste, and irritate skin and eyes. The chlorine or bromine will be providing the measurable, lasting residual and preventing algae from growing.

Ozone is a very effective natural water purifier that is lethal to bacteria, viruses and contaminants without harming people and equipment. There are a few “rules of thumb” that you should follow. Take the time to learn these simple rules and you will have no trouble maintaining a clear, clean pool that will provide you with many years of enjoyment.

Maintain the following pool water operating parameters:

• Total Alkalinity: – 80 to 140 ppm
• pH: – 7.4 to 7.6
• Ozone: – 0.01 ppm
• Free Chlorine: – 1.0 ppm (optional)
• or Bromine: – 2.0 ppm (optional)

1. Operate your pool for the minimum time according to the following chart. We recommend starting at 10 to 12 hours and adjusting as needed to maintain optimum water quality. Bather load, temperature, pool covers and water chemistry are just some of the factors that will affect how long the ozone generator needs to be operated. For best results, and to minimize chlorine or bromine use, you may operate your pool filtration system and ozone generator 24 hours per day.

2. Total Alkalinity is very important. If the pool water’s total alkalinity is too low, the pH can change rapidly and maintaining the proper pH level will be difficult. Equipment will become corroded if the total alkalinity is too low. If the total alkalinity is too high, it will be very difficult to adjust the pH. In addition, scale will form on the walls of the pool and in the equipment if the total alkalinity is too high. The water’s total alkalinity should be adjusted to the proper level BEFORE adjusting the pH. Check total alkalinity once a week and adjust to proper levels as necessary.
3. Ozone is not affected by and does not have an effect on the pool water’s pH. Bathers will have the most effect on the pH. It is therefore necessary to check the pH of your pool water twice a week and keep it adjusted to the proper level. If the pH is high (over 7.6) or low (under 7.4), the water may look cloudy or green. The water may also be irritating to the eyes. High pH can cause staining or scale build-up on the pool walls and plumbing. Low pH can damage the pool’s equipment, corrode pipes or etch the plaster out of the pool walls.
4. Check chlorine or bromine levels once a week. If the chlorine level is below .5 ppm, or the bromine level is below 1 ppm, you should increase the setting on the floater or the erosion feeder, or add just enough by hand to bring the levels up.
5. Filtration is critical to proper ozone operation and water purity. Because ozone purifies the water so completely, the filter gets dirty fast. Backwash the filter properly and often. It is important that all the filter seals and gaskets are in their proper positions. If the filter is not sealed properly, it cannot do its job. Inspect the filter housing regularly. Bad gaskets or a loose or cracked filter housing can result in cloudy and unpleasant smelling water.

If you do not operate the ozone generator for 24 hours a day, it is recommended that you supplement the ozone with a small residual amount of chlorine or bromine. Ozone is very reactive and does not remain in the water for very long, usually only minutes. The ozone generator puts out a fixed amount of ozone every hour it is on. During heavy pool use the ozone generator may not be able to keep up with the extra contaminants added by the higher bather load. It could take a few hours for the ozone to oxidize this extra contamination. If the pool were to be used during this “recovery time,” bathers may not be protected. Using a small amount of chlorine or bromine will provide immediate protection for bathers.

This small amount of chlorine or bromine will provide that little bit of extra protection when the Ozone Generator is not operating. We have found a floater or erosion feeder to be the least troublesome method, however any common form of chlorine or bromine will work. If you use a floater or erosion feeder, it should start out at the lowest setting, and should be increased only enough to maintain the minimum residual level. If you use chlorine, maintain a residual of .5 to 1 ppm. If you decide to use bromine, maintain a residual of 1 to 2 ppm.

Algae can be controlled in an ozonated pool in three ways. Algaecides, periodic shock treatments and/or U.V. sterilizers.

We prefer you not use an algaecide. We have established a consistently effective shock method. The type of oxidizer used for the shock is less important than the method used. We recommend liquid chlorine or potassium-monopersulfate. These are the steps that we find work very well.

Scrub down any existing algae growths.

Shock the pool at 10ppm and maintain the level for 4 hours (black algae may require 15-20 ppm and 5-6 hours).

After 5 to 7 days, whether or not any algae is visible, the pool must be shocked again at at 10ppm for 4 hours. If algae is visible, scrub it down before shock.

The reasoning behind this procedure is fairly simple. Algae will adapt to the the standard level of oxidizer found in a pool. Algae can and will grow very well in 2 ppm of chlorine. The high level (10 ppm) of chlorine (or other oxidizer) is necessary to kill any resistant strains of algae. The chlorine must be absorbed by the algae to kill it, because chlorine actually kills the plant. Therefore it is important to maintain a high chlorine level for a long enough time to poison all of it (10 ppm for 4 hours). There is a very high probability that not all of the algae will be killed the first time (especially in a plaster or gunite pool where the roots can hide in crevices). After about 5 days this algae will begin to recover and grow again. It is very important to shock the pool the second time to kill off the new growth before it can bloom.

About This Information Guide:

In order to enjoy all the features and to become familiar with your new In-Floor System, spend a little time reading this guide.

This guide is arranged in the order we feel allows you to best utilize the information. You may have decided upon the complete PCC 2000 In-Floor Cleaning and Circulation System with Automatic Debris Removal (ADR) and In-Deck Debris Canister (IDC). Or you may have decided upon only certain components that are appropriately suited for your particular geographical location and swimming pool.
In either case, since swimming pools are custom designed, the system is manufactured to be adaptable to any type, size or shape in-ground swimming pool.

This guide explains the three (3) basic functions of the circulation and cleaning system, it’s operation and maintenance procedures.

Your system may include one or more of the following optional features:

1. In-Floor Cleaning and Circulation System (ICC)
   A series of “retracting”, or pop-up nozzles installed in the pool floor, and optional nozzles or “wall jets” on steps, benches, swim-outs, love seats and spas.
2. Automatic Debris Removal System (ADR)
   A patented system of several rotating nozzles, also referred to as “retracting” or “pop-up” nozzles, perhaps combined with “fixed position” type nozzles, which “pop-up” and “retract”, but do not rotate. These nozzles are located directly across from the main drain in your pool.
   These types of nozzles are combined with several sidewall “down jets” that influence and direct debris toward your swimming pool’s main drain circuit.
3. In-Deck Debris Canister (IDC)
   A large, built in debris containment canister located in the deck surrounding the swimming pool. Debris influenced and directed to the bottom main drain of your swimming pool is pulled through the main drain plumbing and deposited into the large “In-Deck Debris Canister” (IDC).
   This debris containment system retains large debris that would normally impair the operation of your pool’s pump. This system dramatically reduces the maintenance required on the pool equipment.

In-Floor Cleaning and Circulation System

Although your system may feature rotating cleaning nozzles within the pool floor, optional cleaning nozzles may have been included on steps, benches, love seats, swim-outs and attached spas. Optional side-wall jets, also known as down jets may have been included to aid in the cleaning of a small or isolated area.
The rotating cleaning nozzles in the floor of your pool have been strategically placed to conform to your pool’s specific design. The nozzles are linked in “networks” of one (1) to six (6) nozzles per circuit. A “circuit” means that the nozzles are linked together to activate at the same time.

The cleaning nozzles will pop-up for a period of 45 to 90 seconds, activated by the “Water Actuator Valve” which is normally located near the pool pump and filtering equipment, or installed near the pool.

Each time the nozzle(s) pops-up above the surface of the pool floor or retracts, it rotates to a new cleaning position. NO ADJUSTMENTS ARE REQUIRED for the rotating floor nozzles.

Occasionally, construction materials accumulate in the plumbing during installation. The debris may inhibit or jam the nozzle in the up position. If this occurs, the nozzles can be removed easily with a pool pole and the nozzle removal tool. A slight “clockwise” turn will allow the nozzle to be removed. One removed, the nozzle should be flushed with a garden hose to dislodge the restricting construction material. This should clean out the nozzle assembly. Be sure to check for rocks or hardened materials that may have become lodged in the nozzle opening, which may restrict the nozzles water flow.

If your swimming pool features side-wall jets, also referred to as down-jets for steps, benches etc., cleaning, the jet assembly allows you to make adjustments to the direction of the water flow or “cleaning pattern”. By simply rotating “counter clockwise” the outer “lock-ring,” the “eyeball,” or inside rounded portion may be swiveled to a desired water flow or cleaning pattern.

Be sure to “re-lock” the outer ring so that the eyeball will maintain its desired position.

Your swimming pool may include the Automatic Debris Removal System which includes two (2) “fixed” position, also known as “non-rotating” floor nozzles located approximately five (5) to eight (8) feet from the bottom main drain. The fixed nozzles are positioned so that the nozzle jets are pointed toward the main drain.

Positioned above the fixed position floor nozzles are two (2) to four (4) “down jets” which are located on the sidewall of the pool approximately twelve (12) inches below the water line.

Both the floor fixed position nozzles and the sidewall down jets are adjusted at the time of installation. It is possible that the fixed position nozzles and sidewall down jets may come out of alignment due to someone playing with these items. Also, for swimming pools that need winterization, it is possible that these items were not properly re-positioned at the time of seasonal start-up.

The amount of water to the floor fixed nozzles and sidewall down jets is controlled by the “gate-valve” mechanism located at the pool equipment. If the gate valve is closed and no water flows through this circuit, the (ADR) fixed position nozzles and down jets will not operate properly, and will not allow debris to be influenced or directed toward the main drain. The amount of water flow through the two (2) non-rotating or fixed position nozzles should only be enough to influence debris to the central main drain. Too much water flow may cause debris to be pushed beyond the central main drain, thus not allowing debris to be captured by the central main drain.

The Circulation and Cleaning System installed in your swimming pool may also include the (ADR) In-Deck Debris Containment Canister referred to as the (IDC).

This canister allows for the collection of large debris which has been removed from the swimming pool through the central active main drain. In areas where there is an abundant amount of large debris that can get into the swimming pool, the “In-Deck Canister” (IDC) is much larger in size than your pool’s pump basket.

Your pool’s pump basket is very small and it only takes a few pieces of large debris to restrict the amount of water the pump can pull. In normal swimming pools, constant removal and emptying of the pump basket is required to maintain proper water flow through the pump.

The (ADR) System’s (IDC) collects the large debris in it’s over-sized, reusable collection basket. Since the (IDC) baskets capacity is many times larger than that of the pool’s pump basket, daily maintenance is dramatically reduced.

The (IDC) is normally installed close to your swimming pool’s skimmer. You will find a lid located in the pool’s deck surface which can be removed to allow access to the (IDC) basket.

Pull the Water Valve “Module” assembly two (2) weeks after pool start-up and wash module screens free of plaster or marcite dust that may have bypassed the filter. Thereafter, once-a-year inspection is recommended.

If dirty spots appear throughout the pool:

1. Clean filter.
2. Clean pump(s), basket(s), skimmer basket(s) and IDC basket.
3. Make sure auxiliary valves are in proper position.

Set of cleaning nozzles remain up (with pump on).

1. Valve module should be serviced or replaced (see valve trouble-shooting).
2. Dislodge particles of debris between nozzle and body by lightly depressing nozzle, with pressure on nozzle to discharge any particles between nozzle and body.

If pressure increases:

1. Clean filter by backwashing.
2. Make sure that auxiliary valves are in proper position.

If one or more cleaning nozzles remain up while flow continues to other circuits:

1. Lightly depress nozzles, by applying pressure on nozzle to discharge any particles between nozzle and body.
2. If nozzle(s) remain in “up” position, remove nozzle(s) and clean (check for plaster or small rocks).

If cleaning nozzles pop up but will not rotate (applies to rotating nozzles only):

1. Lightly depress nozzles, by applying pressure on nozzle to discharge any particles between nozzle and body.
2. If nozzle still does not rotate, remove nozzle assembly and clean inner body and outer nozzle surface.

1. Turn off all pool equipment.
2. Remove deck lid.
3. Rotate the clean inner lid one-quarter (1/4) turn “counter-clockwise” until the lid’s cutouts are positioned under the inner canister stops and lift lid out.
4. Lift out “bag” and empty.
5. Replace reusable “bag”.
6. Replace clear inner lid and rotate “clockwise” until lid stops meet the inner canister stops, locking lid in place.
7. Replace deck lid.
8. Re-start equipment, or allow the pool’s time clock to re-start.

The “In-Floor System” operates on the principal of suspending debris in the water and removing it through your normal filtration system.

“Water Actuator Valve” and “In-Floor” nozzles provide you with a cleaning and recirculating system that reduces the daily cost of pool operation. It also aids in reducing chemical and heating costs.

The pool pump removes water via the skimmer, and the main drain, and then through your pool’s filter, which collects the impurities from the water. Water from the pool then proceeds to the Water Actuated Valve which in turn distributes the water to a series or “network” or in-floor nozzles, or surface returns. One series or “network” of  in-floor nozzles pops-up dispersing a high pressure stream of water. After a brief period, the Water Actuator Valve will automatically cycle the water to another series or network of nozzles or surface returns.

Your system has been installed as a one pump system. The single pump operates the filtering system and the cleaning system.

If the cleaning nozzles are floating:

1. Valve module should be serviced (see valve trouble-shooting).

Water valve does not cycle.

1. Make sure control knob on top of water valve dome lid is the “run” position.
2. Check turbine shaft inside water valve module for restricted movement.

Water valve cycles, but more than one circuit of nozzles remain in the up position.

1. Check for debris lodged between floor nozzle and body, depress nozzle with pole to dislodge debris.
2. Check to see if diaphragm inside module is ruptured.
3. Check to see if debris is lodged between lower base ribs and module. Wash out base and module assembly thoroughly with garden hose.

Congratulations on your decision to drastically reduce chlorine costs with an Electrolytic Ionization System. Maintaining your pool will be much easier using an Electrolytic Ionization System. The next several paragraphs contain information that will ensure that you get maximum performance from your ionization system. We ask that you follow these simple and easy instructions.

IMPORTANT!

1. Your microprocessor must be plugged in or connected to 110 vac only. It must also be plugged in or connected to a “GFCI” plug. This is a “Ground Fault Interrupter” or a “GFCI Circuit”.
2. Do not sprinkle granular chlorine in your pool. It can settle to the bottom undissolved and cause black stains.
3. This unit is designed for residential or commercial pools of 50,000 gallons or LESS only.

1. Read this information and mail your warranty registration.
2. pH – Maintain between 7.2 and 7.6 – Very important!.
   Proper pH is important if you want sparkling clear water. test your pH at least once a week and use an acid demand test to determine the correct amount of acid to add. It may be necessary to check the pH if there is a lot of rain or wind.
3. Copper – Maintain Between 0.15 and 0.30 PPM.
   Use your test kit that is provided with your ionization system to measure the copper level once each week. Adjust the control knob if necessary.
   NOTE: Do not let the copper level get too high. If it reaches 0.4 ppm, turn the control knob to 0 (zero) until the copper goes down to 0.30 ppm.You need not worry about silver, the electrodes are specially formulated to keep the silver proportionate to the copper.
4. Add Oxidizer Every Week (Minimum)
   Add 1 cup of Cal-Hypo per 8,000 gallons of water, as an oxidizer, at least once a week. Add the Cal-Hypo slowly diluting, then pouring directly into skimmer after sundown. The Cal-Hypo will dissipate by mid-morning. If your water is not completely clear, you can double the amount.
   Other oxidizers that can be used are: (per 8,000 gallons)
   1 lb. non-chlorine shock
   1 tablet Tri-Chlor
   1/2 gallon liquid chlorine
   1/2 cup Di-Chloro
   The oxidizer burns up body oils, suntan lotion, dead algae and other organic matter in the water. An oxidizing agent is required to dissolve the bio-shield that can build up around copper ions preventing the ions from coming into contact with and killing the algae. In very hot weather, after heavy rain or after heavy use, you may need to add more oxidizer.
   When using granular chlorine, dissolve completely. This can settle on the bottom undissolved and cause black stains.
5. Alkalinity – Maintain between 80 and 120 ppm.
   You need to check your total alkalinity once a month and keep it between 80 and 120 ppm. This is just good water maintenance.
6. Cloudy Water
   Your ionization system cannot cause cloudy water. Cloudy water is always caused by very small particles in the water. The water will not be clear until these particles are removed. There are three ways to remove these particles. For quick results, do all three things at once.
   A. Oxidize (burn up) the organic matter.
   Add oxidizer to the water as stated in #4. Dilute and pour the solution into the skimmer at sundown. if the problem is really bad you need to double the amount. Don’t worry about swimming in the water, the oxidizer will dissipate by mid-morning.
   B. Dissolve the particles.
   Do this by adding acid and lower pH to 7.2
   C. Filter the particles out. (Do not use filter cleaners with alum.)
   Temporarily increase the filtration time to 24 hours per day. make sure the bottom drain is open. The bottom drain should always be open to filter all the water in the pool. You can add a small amount of clarifier to help make the small particles large enough to be trapped by the filter. Clarifier must NOT contain ALUM.
7. Algae
   If you allow your copper level to get low, algae may grow in the your pool. To correct the problem quickly:
   A: Make sure the copper is up to 0.30 ppm.
   B. Add oxidizer (as stated in #4). This will help the copper be more effective.
   C. Brush the pool walls and steps where algae is visible. Temporarily run the pump 24 hours a day for 3 days.
   D. If Black Algae gets started in the pool, take immediate steps to get rid of it by applying an algaecide (simizine 80%) directly to the algae. Keep treating it every time it starts to show up. Don’t relent.
   NOTE: Black algae has deep roots and will keep coming back until it is completely killed.
8. Backwash your filter every 10 days at a minimum.
   Backwashing is important in keeping in keeping your filter clean, to provide good filtration and clean water. The filter is the backbone of clean/clear water, so keep the filter clean.

Ionization is an alternative method of controlling algae and bacteria in your pool without having to use a measurable amount of chlorine. When you consider all the adverse effects of chlorine, you might say you are moving from the “horse and buggy” days to the “high tech” era of modern times. That’s great, but no product is a “magic cure all” including your ionization system. Obviously, the simplicity of the ionization system will make your pool more enjoyable for your family

Balance the water TA, pH, and Calcium hardness as necessary.

Do not close pool with copper ion level above 0.5, the correct level is 0.3 to 0.4.

Click here for winter operation.